Thursday, July 2, 2020

It only takes a spark - Preparedness series

. . . to make it hot!


No, this isn’t about love or war… Not this time.  Rather, I’ve been enjoying a tour of fire-making gear via the latest online survivalist tutorials.  Odd interest for an insurance agent! Though like most civilized folk, I take for granted ready availability of heat and fire without resorting to sticks or boy scouts, or however one produces friction and sparks. 

Need for this basic survival skill will prove obvious –like finding water and making shelter—when urban power, gas and water deliveries are interrupted, even for just a couple days.  Else wherefrom warmth, cooking of food, sanitizing water for drinking, cleansing wounds, bathing? That’s why my household maintains a patio gas grill and two extra 20 lb cans of propane.  I also keep an inline propane water heater for camping or emergency use, this model requiring only 2 psi water pressure:
All this device really needs is gravity of water draining from a bucket elevated high enough (about 4 feet), providing 2 psi pressure to trigger the burner and fill another bucket below with piping hot bath water. 

What happens, however, when my propane supply fails?  I have attempted to employ a simple copper coil placed right amidst campfire coals, connecting to two water buckets… which worked, though prone to damage equipment. Otherwise I’m back to the rustic steel kettle on a wood stove or grill. 

And what when matches run out, or gas click-lighter quits?  A magnifying lens requires direct sunlight.  Hardly anyone of my generation, even a wilderness proven Eagle Scout, will be adept at building a fire from foraged fuel and materials in cold and wet conditions:

More than half the battle is nursing a spark into live fire.  So I would suggest that one practice first the making of a tinder nest or bundle to shelter magnesium flakes and spark from steel and ferro rod; then blow or fan it into flame… this without scorching your manicure or eyebrow weave, of course.

Graduate to using char cloth, charcoaled shavings of punk (rotted wood), fungus, pitch or fatwood (sap-infused knots).
Then try other oily or vegetable volubles ignited by friction of wood or stone.  Dried citrus skins and grass seed heads make good tinder because of their oil content. If you press seeds to extract natural oil as accelerant, choose those with a lower-temperature flash point –flax, rape (canola), safflower, sunflower, olive.

Next explore various campfire construction models:
My favorite so far is the Dakota fire hole, aka rocket stove (see below). 

Now for methods of producing a tiny coal sufficient to ignite kindling scraped from obscure locations.  Practice scouting for right materials. Likewise sources of tinder and serious fuel. But every fire requires first the spark.  And one of the easiest and sure-fire of techniques needs only (brace yourself) two sticks and one scout, boy or girl… though the fire saw or fire plow may produce faster results than drill and board, and with less huff and puff, especially where two scouts are made to cooperate.  Good luck with that!

Bamboo fire saw:
Yucca fire saw:

Fire plow: 

Search further instructions and videos for the making of drills and thongs as more durable equipment.  Better yet, find an article with clear pictures to print and save for the day it may be needed. A most elegant solution –beside your stash of waterproofed matches and petroleum-soaked dryer lint—is the fire piston, an ancient tool based on the same principle as a modern diesel engine.


A simpler answer to problems of equipment wear, blisters and wasted time is the safe caching of live embers from tonight’s fire to readily start tomorrow’s. Enter the ember carrier. Any old metal can slung by a cord will work; else fashion a wallet from bark filled with fungus or punk wood embers and insulated with peat moss or lichens:


Introducing the Rocket Stove (aka woodgas, avan [earth] or mass heater)
They say this simple invention would have revolutionized wilderness pioneering –minimizes smoke and fumes and requires only light sticks as fuel; can even be self-feeding. Basically, you deliberately engineer a chimney fire over a forge furnace, with extra venting at bottom and top enabling two stages of ignition: first the wood fuel and second the wood gas. Result is a super-efficient column of flame that roars like a rocket.

Primary elements of the rocket or woodgas stove:
            Insulated fire box and chimney (stack bricks or cinder blocks; earth, clay, concrete double-walled shell filled with ash, pumice or straw)
            Side hole to feed larger fuel
            Vent hole (may be directly under fuel hole)

Optional enhancements:
            Fuel hole at 45-degree angle for gravity feed
            Heat-conductive framing on top (iron or rock), dual function
            –griddle or grate to hold cook pot or kettle
 –extra air vents to aid secondary ignition of wood gas
Funnel exhaust at one side through a sealed chamber to a remote chimney,
 used to heat an oven, bench or bed;
 may be constructed below ground to heat a cabin or tent

Simplest rendition is the Dakota fire hole:
 
Experiment digging two side tunnels, one for air flow and a second angled to gravity-feed sticks into the burn chamber.


Internet is full of pre-fab rocket stoves for purchase:


Easy DIY designs:




Modern tech fire equipment:
Plasma igniter

Solar igniter

Thermo-electric generators



Solar cookers


Tent heaters